Some sites of Warsaw Old Town Dancing has taken me all around Europe, and this month it was my second trip to Poland for Warsaw Swing. After my last trip, I hadn't really expected a gastronomic delight, but that's where my American friend Heidi comes in. Imagine my joy when she advised she'd found a Michelin recommended restaurant based in a former wine cellar, which once housed some of the world's finest wines. And when she told me she'd got us reservations for just before the dancing started, I knew this was going to be a rather different dance weekend. Fukier is right in the main square of the old town and claims to be the oldest restaurant in Warsaw with a history dating back to the early 16th Century.
Although mentioned in the Michelin Guide, I don't think it is "starred", yet it it seems to be the haunt of visiting famous people from George Bush, and Roman Polanski (pre jail) to Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and royals, the Queen of Spain and our Princess Anne. And now Purple Teeth!
The online reviews led me to fear terrible service, something I wholeheartedly dread, but aside from it being a tad on the slow side of relaxed, I found the staff friendly, well-informed and helpful.
Although mentioned in the Michelin Guide, I don't think it is "starred", yet it it seems to be the haunt of visiting famous people from George Bush, and Roman Polanski (pre jail) to Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and royals, the Queen of Spain and our Princess Anne. And now Purple Teeth!
The online reviews led me to fear terrible service, something I wholeheartedly dread, but aside from it being a tad on the slow side of relaxed, I found the staff friendly, well-informed and helpful.
Inside the restaurant We experimented with a number of dishes. Sharing appetisers was a good way to experience more. The Game Paté was huge, but more of a parfait in style being smooth, creamy and full of flavour, served with the traditional garnish of pickles and bread and a hefty dose of horseradish. The Lithuanian style dumplings with lovage were simply swimming in a delicious garlic butter, warm, and comforting and absolutely delicious. For the main course, I found it incredibly hard to choose between a number of local delicacies, but in the end, I plumped for the half roasted duck, simply based on the enthusiasm with which our waiter described it.
I could not have been more delighted. Slow cooked, flakey and tender with a crispy skin, served stuffed with spiced apples and a plum sauce, there was more than enough to satisfy Heidi too, who was a tad underwhelmed by her breaded veal cutlets. Luckily she'd also enjoyed a local mushroom soup.
I could not have been more delighted. Slow cooked, flakey and tender with a crispy skin, served stuffed with spiced apples and a plum sauce, there was more than enough to satisfy Heidi too, who was a tad underwhelmed by her breaded veal cutlets. Luckily she'd also enjoyed a local mushroom soup.
Some of our dishes: Lithuanian Dumplings, Game Pate; Veal Cutlets with Quail Eggs
My roast duck and the Jaboulet Beaumes-de-Venise 2010 "Le Paradou" (14% abv) Matching wine to such a robust selection of flavours and textures can be a challenge, though the wine list here has an interesting selection. They are clearly catering to their more famous clientele who will desire wines with cult status and price tags to match such as Vega Sicilia Unico... Luckily there are still a few bargains to be had. Intrigued to see for the first time a Beaumes-de-Venise AC red, I opted to choose this Grenache & Syrah based wine. The Southern Rhone appellation is more known for it's Vin Doux Naturel (Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise), a sticky dessert wine. Here it expresses similarity in all but price to a Chateuneuf-de-Pape and I was pleased that we both really enjoyed the juicy red fruit flavours which complemented our dishes well.
With such hearty fare, we were a little disappointed not to have room for dessert, especially as the descriptions were so lyrical and tempting, and included allusions to the dancing we'd be doing for the rest of the weekend.
I'd love to have tried "Soup of Nothing": with clouds and red fruit, or, "Waltzing Hazelnuts": after this cake you will dance forever. But it wasn't to be.
In total, the meal with mineral water and wine came to less than £110 for 2 which was substantially less than we'd been warned to expect, and we were full to bursting, and unable to dance for a couple of hours! The surroundings and story made us feel like we'd experienced a little gastronomic history. All in all, a success.
With such hearty fare, we were a little disappointed not to have room for dessert, especially as the descriptions were so lyrical and tempting, and included allusions to the dancing we'd be doing for the rest of the weekend.
I'd love to have tried "Soup of Nothing": with clouds and red fruit, or, "Waltzing Hazelnuts": after this cake you will dance forever. But it wasn't to be.
In total, the meal with mineral water and wine came to less than £110 for 2 which was substantially less than we'd been warned to expect, and we were full to bursting, and unable to dance for a couple of hours! The surroundings and story made us feel like we'd experienced a little gastronomic history. All in all, a success.
Kindzmarauli Georgian Wine If you've been following my blog for a while, you'll have noted that the Polish and Hungarians are rather fond of flavoured vodkas rather than wine. So it was that I sampled Soplica in both hazelnut flavour (reminiscent of Nutella) and raspberry flavour (a tad too sweet but certainly a delicious cocktail ingredient), as well as various citrus flavoured vodkas.
However, as befits Purple Teeth, the highlight of my alcohol adventures over the weekend was a brand new wine, both country, and grape varietal.
Georgian wine is probably not up there on your list of "must try" and I'd have been hard pushed to describe the importance of Georgia to the history of viticulture. Yet it appears the Georgians were among the first to make wine some 7000 years ago with archeological remains having turned up evidence of fermenting grape juice underground during the winters of 4000 BC! I've since learned that our word wine comes from the Georgian word "gvino" so it seems a bit of an oversight that I'd never before tasted a wine from this birthplace of my beloved beverage.
However, as befits Purple Teeth, the highlight of my alcohol adventures over the weekend was a brand new wine, both country, and grape varietal.
Georgian wine is probably not up there on your list of "must try" and I'd have been hard pushed to describe the importance of Georgia to the history of viticulture. Yet it appears the Georgians were among the first to make wine some 7000 years ago with archeological remains having turned up evidence of fermenting grape juice underground during the winters of 4000 BC! I've since learned that our word wine comes from the Georgian word "gvino" so it seems a bit of an oversight that I'd never before tasted a wine from this birthplace of my beloved beverage.
I was unprepared for this to be a semi-sweet red. Certainly I couldn't understand a word of the label, and the branding suggested something quite aggressive, but this prestigious appellation is famed for it's reds from the late-harvested, inky-black Saperavi grape (another new one on me) which are vinified to around 12% abv with some residual sugar and aged for 2 years. Don't be put off by the sweet red description. This is not a port, nor a Banyuls in it's sweetness levels. Simply, the hint of sweetness provides a backdrop to a rather appealing bright berry or damson flavour with a smooth, mouth-filling texture, and a hint of spiciness. If you enjoy the richness of Amarone della Valpolicella or deep, high alcohol, old vine Zinfandels, then you'll probably enjoy this without thinking too much about whether it's sweet, dry, Georgian or historically important.
If you're interested in getting to know more about Georgian wine, or to try a version of the type I tried, then UK based The Georgian Wine Society is ready to help you, with online sales and lots of historical background. I must thank my new Polish friends Karol and Kasia for introducing me to Kindzmarauli, a version of which is available from The GWS for £10.99 a bottle.
I love having new experiences in wine and am hugely grateful that my West Coast Swing dancing hobby has brought me into contact with so many different cultures, people and opportunities to learn something new about how alcohol in general, and wine specifically. is enjoyed throughout the world. I have no more overseas trips planned for the rest of this year, so I'll be sharing what I've learned at a couple of tasting events, as well as experimenting with what's on my own wine rack. I hope that it inspires you to try something new too!
If you're interested in getting to know more about Georgian wine, or to try a version of the type I tried, then UK based The Georgian Wine Society is ready to help you, with online sales and lots of historical background. I must thank my new Polish friends Karol and Kasia for introducing me to Kindzmarauli, a version of which is available from The GWS for £10.99 a bottle.
I love having new experiences in wine and am hugely grateful that my West Coast Swing dancing hobby has brought me into contact with so many different cultures, people and opportunities to learn something new about how alcohol in general, and wine specifically. is enjoyed throughout the world. I have no more overseas trips planned for the rest of this year, so I'll be sharing what I've learned at a couple of tasting events, as well as experimenting with what's on my own wine rack. I hope that it inspires you to try something new too!
From the menu, the history of the wine cellar where the restaurant is housed
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