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A taste of home

19/6/2015

 

Some time in the 1990s, on a trip to Strasbourg, I discovered I rather liked a wine called "Tokay Pinot Gris". In the intervening 20 years, the EU have removed the historic name "tokay" from Alsace Pinot Gris, but they've never dampened my enthusiasm for this tropical, rich, almost "honey & spice" white wine, which can range from dry through super sweet.

Despite years studying wine, and appreciating differences in climate, terroir, & winemaking styles, my logical mind, as well as my heart, has grappled with the fact that this same, pink skinned grape produces some of the least interesting (to me) wines on the market: Pinot Grigio.

Before the PG lovers write in to tell me that there are good Grigios out there, I know... The Alto Adige is where to look, I've been told. Many times. Let's not bring the facts into this.

Despite the wild variation in worldwide Chardonnay styles, the pronounced differences between wines styled as Syrah & Shiraz, and a pricey WSET education, I just can't bring myself to buy something labelled Pinot Grigio. Pinot Gris, on the other hand...

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I had heard of Pinot Gris being grown in England, but not much of it had come my way. Until now. And at just the right time. As Mr Purple Teeth was setting off on extended travels, what better send off than an English wine? He's not much of a fizz fan. A perfect opportunity to try Bolney Estate's Pinot Gris (£17.50 from The Wine Society).

Poor Mr Purple Teeth had to go through the palaver of blind tasting before the big reveal. "A lively little wine with pineapple and grapefruit."

"Is that good?" I asked.

"Yes! It's complex," (that's Mr PT's byword for "bloody good")... "It starts tropical then, there is grapefruit pith, and it finishes to a kind of lime acidity."

Blimey! Which one of us went to WSET?

Imagine his shock when he found out it was English. On establishing the price (a lot more than our normal Tuesday night wines), he even suggested having it again. England, we have a winner. (Good, I need him to come back from his travels.)

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At 11% abv, it's a touch sweeter than most whites we drink regularly, but the lower alcohol level is welcome as an aperitif. I'm tired of being declared a binge drinker before I've even started dinner.

It's a fruit forward style, and a bit more acidic than is expected from an Alsace example. Nor does it hit that Italian "neutral" style. Bolney have introduced me and set the bar for my expectations of English PG.

It's full of juicy grapefruit but without the bitternes, lifted by a zesty lime undertone. Though there is a faint honeyed sweetness it's off dry, rather than sickly.

I doubt I'd have fared better than Mr PT in a blind tasting, either. All that matters, though, is that it's Very Good Wine. And we say, "buy it now." I hope they've got some left.

Enjoy!

Two French wines

18/6/2015

 

Oh my. I am woefully behind on serious blogging. I blame IT problems, work, travel and oh, you don't care... But I recently re-read an old blog and have to admit to being a tiny but disappointed that I no longer write such cool stuff! Perhaps all bloggers suffer this way?

Anyway my existential angst was somewhat eased (rather unusually for me) by 2 French wines.

French wine number 1:

La Balade Minervois by Aurelie Vic at Domaine Peignes le Vieux

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Raved about at a tasting I worked at last week, I hadn't been able to taste it at the event. I could not wait to get my hands on a sample. Minervois was one of the first French wines that I fell in love with. Some million years ago, at a dinner in Switzerland, my French boss was despatched by my American colleague and myself to buy crates of the stuff direct from the vineyard.

So, I've tried many in the UK seeking to find The One that would recapture that joy, but with minimal success. Sooner or later, even with the decent ones, vintage changes have let me down.

Back to La Balade. It recalls that amazing moment of "I must get my hands on more of this wine".

Luckily that should be easier than my last Minervois obsession. I believe it will be available through Wine Cellar Club by the end of the month. (Price tbc).

La Balade is like a stroll down memory lane, recalling summers of ripe, jammy blackberries in abundance. Almost sweet, but not sickly or jammy in the way some over-extracted new world wines can be, there's also a tart Raspberry acidity and some beguiling spices.

A wine made by a woman, and perhaps for women, it's elegant medium body isn't overpowering. There's something of the little black dress about this wine. It will win admirers wherever it goes.

This is a cut above some simple Languedoc wines, with the herby notes of "la garrigue" coming through as part of the long finish. The blackberry flavour goes on.

This is going to fly off the shelves. You heard it here first.

French Wine number 2:

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Le Clos des Cazaux Prestige 2012 Gigondas is quite a different wine. From the southern Rhône appelation some say rivals Chateauneuf du Pape, I can't say when (or if) this 14.5% abv stonker will be on UK shelves, but I sincerely hope it's soon. Mr Purple Teeth will be terribly sorry to have missed this one, while he's travelling in Canada.

From a family estate like the Minervois, and also sustainably grown, this is also a true "terroir" wine. A GSM blend, it's here the similarities end.

If La Balade is a little black dress, the Gigondas is a black velvet cloak, enrobing a silk evening gown. It's a wine for a special moment, and it's one the boys will love. On the nose, there's a powerful herbal note, an aged character that implies excellent oak integration and screaming dark fruit.

It begs you to take a sip, and as if it were a seductive siren, you're at risk of being dashed on the rocks, as one sip will never be enough.

There is something intense here. As La Balade demands to be enjoyed with friends, our Cazaux almost invites selfishness. You want to immerse yourself in its silky black fruits, liquorice and nutmeg. You don't want to talk about it. You just want to succumb to the obsession.

So that's what I'm going to do now, as I immerse myself in a second glass, and send a prayer up to Bacchus that this wine will be available in the UK very soon.

(Composed, edited & published entirely on iPhone while enjoying the wine - I take full responsibility for errors)

    Purple Teeth

    My name's Heather and I've been enjoying wine for over 20 years. I'm the 2013 winner of the Wine and Spirit Education Trust Rhone prize for oustanding students at the advanced level.
    My mission is to share my passion for the myriad varieties of fermented grape juice, hopefully inspiring you to try something new, or to host  a Purple Teeth wine party in your own home or business.

    My blog mainly features wines you should be able to find on your local high street or online, and occasionally, I will review restaurants, travel and other forms of alcohol, since my qualification covers spirits too.  I believe it's important to enjoy the calories and the cash we spend on alcohol, and I hope my guidance can help you reduce the risk of making a bad buy.
      
    When I'm not drinking wine, you'll find me on the dance floor where West Coast Swing is my dance of choice. Socialising with the friends I've made there from all over the world has also brought me new adventures in alcohol!  And just in case you're interested, I also write a blog called Confidence Within.  You'll find it at heatherharrison.weebly.com


    Remember to enjoy wine sensibly...
    For a woman, 2-3 units per day is the recommended maximum allowance.  This equates to around one standard "pub measure" glass of wine:
    175ml of 13% alcohol wine is 2.3 units (and a scary 140 calories).  
    You'll find all the facts you need about safe, moderate drinking at the www.Drinkaware.co.uk site. 
    Purple Teeth supports safe drinking. Never drive or operate machinery after drinking alcohol.

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