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Treat of the Week

23/3/2015

 
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Visiting our home, affectionately known as Chateau Purple Teeth, must be a daunting prospect.  

The normal bottle of supermarket plonk that will do for an evening with the neighbours may be scoffed at by a "wine guru".  

Of course, there's always flowers and chocolates, and the intrepid might read the blog for inspiration, trying to find a favoured bottle.

But the slightly more creative (or let's call it spendthrift) guests who arrived this weekend, brought a bottle they'd treated themselves to but hadn't yet had a chance to open.

And what a bottle it was! 

Born in 1961 this wine was older than all of us assembled for it's grand opening.  (Note: I sent the remains home with it's kind donors for them to enjoy. It would have been a tad too greedy to hold onto the bottle. This style of Tawny could be safely sipped and enjoyed once opened, for a lot longer than other wines or Ports - some say up to a year, though I would encourage them to enjoy it within a couple of months.  It wouldn't last that long chez moi).

Graham's 1961 Single Harvest Tawny Port. 

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To understand what makes a single harvest (Colheita) Port special, you have to know that the bulk of Port (and Sherry) we drink in the UK is not "vintage".  In this, it differs greatly from most of the wine we drink where all the grapes come from one season's harvest.

Port is generally blended over a number of years, to create a "house style" and reduce variation.  In this, it was one of the first "branded" wines, so that customers might favour one Port house over another.  

Most Port houses only declare a "vintage" in exceptional years, to produce a classic product based on the best grapes available.   In general, though, Vintage Port is a different style of Port to Tawny Port, hence the declaration of Single Harvest on the label.  Are you confused yet?  

Trust me, there's more to Port than most people know: White Port, Ruby Port and even Pink Port are hitting our shelves alongside Vintage, Late Bottled Vintage, and finally Tawny (with our without age declaration).  If you're interested, there's a brief guide which I won't try to replicate here.  If you've decided you don't like Port, perhaps trying another style might help.  

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What makes our bottle special, though? It's not traditional for Tawny Port to made with grapes from a single harvest. In general, the age declaration is an average age of the grapes within, e.g. 10, or 20 years.  
Even more special is the fact that it was made in such a limited quantity (3 casks only) and just 712 bottles were released to the public for sale.  You can start to imagine that this is a pricey bottle, even aside from the padded leather tube, and the solid oak lid, which doubles as a display plinth. (See left).

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Delightfully packaged, and with a rarity value that would doubtless attract people to see it as an investment, I'm a firm believer that wines are made to be drunk.  So, very carefully, we opened it.  Aged Tawny Port is my favourite Port style meaning this was already likely to be a hit. 

And a hit it was. 


Incredibly fresh acidity meant it was mouthwateringly zingy despite it's 50+ years. I hope I've got as much verve when I pass my 50th year. Fantastic flavours of caramel, smokey cinder toffee and vanilla with hints of nuts, clove and perhaps orange peel sing in the mouth.  The flavour (and the smell) lingers intensely meaning a small glass can be sipped and savoured for up to an hour.  A fantastic treat, and a real privilege to experience, I'm more than pleased to have had the opportunity to have this taste of history.  Sadly, I won't be treating myself to a bottle any time soon as a blogger's income doesn't run to such delights.


I've linked to the Tawny Port I most often purchase below, should you wish to try one which is considerably less expensive.


Still a whippersnapper compared to the oldest wine ever to enter Chateau Purple Teeth, it's highly likely to keep it's second place for the foreseeable future.  But I'd love you to prove me wrong. 


If you get the chance, or perhaps you have a "luxury" bottle you're saving, my advice is to drink it.  Enjoy your wine today. You never know what tomorrow holds.
Cheers!

Hot to Chill

16/3/2015

 
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(I first published a version of this article in Vivid Magazine's March/April Edition)

As we move towards spring, we often spring clean our homes, and even our wardrobes.  But when was the last time you spring-cleaned your wine rack?

Are you still buying the same wine brands, grape varietals or blends you’ve been buying for year?  If so, you may be missing out on the hottest new arrivals that not only deliver great value, but also pack a punch on the palate.  Let Purple Teeth help you pick from the latest trends, try something new, and chill out with an altogether hotter glass of wine.

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Decluttering:
Clear out space on your dusty wine rack.  Out with the old and in with the new.  Some wine really is worth aging, and will improve in the bottle.  But, if you typically spend less than £10 a bottle and buy at the local supermarket, check the labels on your rack.  Any Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc or Rosé that’s lain there or in your fridge for a while will likely be past it’s best if it’s vintage is 2011 or before.  


Remember if your wine is from the southern Hemisphere (South Africa/Argentina/New Zealand/Australia) the grapes are harvested around March so that wine is 6 months older than your French equivalent of the same age

Restocking:

The hottest whites will see you through spring and into summer. 

  • Londoners have been going gaga over Picpoul de Pinet since last summer.  (Pronounce it PickPool du PeeNay)  It’s a white wine that truly expresses it’s sense of place, and that place is the South of France, by the seaside, near the Thau lagoon.  Serve with dish of mussels, and this lip smacking, slightly saline, lemony zinger will be right at home.  And because it’s from the Languedoc, home of value when it comes to France, you’ll be able to find decent examples at under a tenner, and it’s got enough weight to serve with your fish and chips.  My favourites come from local merchants: winecellarclub.co.uk's Reine Juliette is a perfect example, and Perfect Friday Wine, both under a tenner.  

  • Groovy Grüvee, or Grüner Veltliner to give it it’s full name, is the Austrian wine that all self-respecting London restaurants have added to their wine lists in the last year or two.  Another dry, un-oaked white that balances crisp acidity with juicy citrus fruit, this one is a little more complex with hints of white pepper and the odd floral note along with the grapefruit and lemon.  It’s got a lot going on, and will cheerfully accompany your green salad, your seared scallops or keep you company as you sit at the bar alone.  It’s not an airhead of a wine.  Spend around £12-15 on this grape from the Kamptal or Wachau regions and you’ll discover a new best friend.  You can pick this us more cheaply in the supermarkets, but I think it's worth spending a little more at a merchant who knows their stuff to get one that best expresses the grape.  Again, there's a great example at WineCellarClub.Co.uk and the one I've listed below, by Domaine Wachau at Amazon is also great if a tad more expensive.
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Bacchus - a god of wine, pictured drinking red - is a wonderful English white.
  • If you can’t get enough of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, you’re not alone.  Sauvignon Blanc has been Britain’s biggest selling white varietal for several years.  But it seems to me that shipping wine 12000 miles is not the most environmentally friendly option when we’ve got English Bacchus right here on our doorstep.  English Sparkling Wine has been getting all the press over the last 2 years, but the dry white wine from the Bacchus grape is the answer to the eco-conscious Sauvignon Blanc drinker’s prayers.  It brings you all that gooseberry goodness and makes a lovely aperitif or partner to a dressed crab or crumbly goat cheese just as well.  My personal favourite comes from Kent’s Chapel Down vineyard. If you want to stay even more local, there are softer versions available from the Thames Valley’s Brightwell Vineyards, Stanlake Park and Oaken Grove.  Wait a month or two till the 2014 vintage is release as it was one of the best years of late.  Prices range from about £8-£14 – similar to that of New Zealand’s biggest wine export.  If you can't wait, try the one from Perfect Friday Wine from Oaken Grove at Taplow. 
  • And the hottest red?  If you’re looking for value, Spain’s Monastrell (known as Mourvèdre in France or Mataró in Australia) has evolved from is role as the M in a GSM blend (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) to a single varietal that delivers everything from bright juicy fruity flavours in young versions, through to serious oaked gems that delivery leathery, tobacco and spice notes. You'll find great value examples from Yecla and Jumilla.   Matching grilled pork, lamb or even charcuterie meats like salami, you won’t destroy it if you chill it.  The Spanish do. And because it’s not yet achingly hip – you should be able to bag a decent one for a very reasonable price.  The cheapest drinkable example I've found is the Wine Society's Spicy Spanish Red (£5.50) though you do have to pay a one off £40 membership to buy wine from there.   Juan Gil is an amazing wine-maker in the Jumilla region and I love his wines, which I've listed below from Amazon. The gold label offers great value and I've drunk the silver label in some lovely restaurants in Spain.  

Cheers!

Revisiting a Bloodbath

9/3/2015

 
Picturei-latina Syrah from Naked Wines
The virtual tumbleweed has been blowing around Purple Teeth HQ this year.  I have many excuses and no excuses.

Technology problems aside, my main problem has been what to write about.  I love exploring new and interesting wines, but sometimes you just want to revisit an old friend.  Wine knowledge is also no guarantee of finding exciting and vibrant wines every time you hit the shops either. I have a high success rate, but not every wine is really worthy of mention. You also tire quickly of me waxing lyrical about wine gifts that aren't widely available in the UK. 

I've also been doing a lot of writing for other people, about their wines and, also working on (shock horror!) other things.  I've neglected the Purple Teethers.  Sorry.

You don't want to hear what sounds like an advertorial, and I don't think you want to read about the same wine 3 times. 

Nevertheless, I am going to review this little number again:  The i-Latina Syrah from Chile. (Available from Naked Wines). Fittingly, for the week that sees us celebrate International Women's Day, it's made by a lady winemaker.   It was with some trepidation that I opened this bottle.  The last time I drunk it was over 2 years ago, and the occasion was something of a blood-bath.   Read all about my Tarantino-eque encounter with a bottle of Syrah here.

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Back in the early days of this blog, I was happy to give Naked Wines some credit.  Lately though, I've found my trials to be disappointing.  Occasional gems such as this one disappear all to quickly from the site, and there are a lot of over-priced and rather average wines on offer.  Having tried many different wines, there have been very few I've really felt it worth the bother of buying again.  Which brings me back to this one. At £10.99 (Angel Price), it represents a good saving over the so-called regular price of £16.99, and there is actually still some stock left, so be quick.  

Chile ris one of the few places where we can still find good value these days, and this French-oak aged Syrah will rival many Australian Shirazes at a similar price point.  It's not quite up to the mark of the 2009 vintage, but nor did it destroy my kitchen decor this time, so I'll forgive it, and perhaps buy another bottle or two.

If you've got money lingering in a Naked account, and you like chunky, chewy, yet elegant ripe Shiraz, take my advice and bung this in your trolley then cancel your direct debit.  That's what I've done. Wines like this are a rarity, offering both power and value. 

In my last Naked shipment, I tried 2 different Torrontes from Argentina - both were drinkable but there was nothing to differentiate them from other Torrontes at similar price points.  I also tried a Fiano from Puglia.  Again, it was perfectly drinkable, but nothing worthy of a blog post when compared to the value offered by the Wine Society's Fiano/Greco blend. I also preferred the previous vintage. 

The Low Yield Roussanne from the South of France was pretty good, but again, not as good as previous vintages. It's an under-rated Southern Rhone grape, and if you like oaky Chardonnay, you might want to try it, from Naked or from elsewhere.  

Perhaps I'm getting too fussy. Among the reds, I had a very disappointing Zinfandel (supposedly Angel's Reserve), a half-way decent Graciano-based Rioja (which was wasn't to Mr Purple Teeth's tastes but was good from a novelty perspective - expect it to pop up in a long overdue blog about Spanish wine soon).  I still have a couple of other bottles in the rack, but I'm no longer excited about opening them.  I will, of course let you know if I find a gem among them. 

My days of buying into the "let's get Naked" hype are over.  Sure, it's a cool website and the interaction area is second to none, but the marketing budget is immense. Having spent some time on the other side of the industry, I no longer believe the hype.  

Disagree?  Feel free to share your reviews of Naked or indeed, any other wine clubs on my Facebook page, or follow me on Twitter.  I prefer to keep Purple Teeth a positive zone, and tend to review only the wines I think it's worth you spending your cash on, but if you'd like to hear the ones I think you should avoid too, do let me know.

Cheers!

Rasteau ends radio silence

4/3/2015

 

Apologies for the recent radio silence, my dear readers. There's often much more on my Facebook page

I could make excuses about technogy problems, but the fact is, I've been revisiting old favourites, writing too much about wine for others, and sadly, drinking some rather uninspiring wines.

But today was different - and not a moment too soon.

Thank you to the dear friend who carried this gold medal winning Rhône gem from Rasteau.

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A Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend from an appellation formerly known for rather rustic wines, La Domelière is full, rich and full of spice and blackberry flavours. I love it.

I love how wine connects us to friends and places. Wines like this do it best.

Please share your own reviews of surprising or pleasing wines on our Facebook page, or let me know if there's something I should be sampling via Twitter

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And medal winner or not, if you're proud of a wine you make or supply, and want to share it with my readers, here or in the sites I write for, feel free to submit samples.

Cheers!

A short post entirely produced on iPhone

    Purple Teeth

    My name's Heather and I've been enjoying wine for over 20 years. I'm the 2013 winner of the Wine and Spirit Education Trust Rhone prize for oustanding students at the advanced level.
    My mission is to share my passion for the myriad varieties of fermented grape juice, hopefully inspiring you to try something new, or to host  a Purple Teeth wine party in your own home or business.

    My blog mainly features wines you should be able to find on your local high street or online, and occasionally, I will review restaurants, travel and other forms of alcohol, since my qualification covers spirits too.  I believe it's important to enjoy the calories and the cash we spend on alcohol, and I hope my guidance can help you reduce the risk of making a bad buy.
      
    When I'm not drinking wine, you'll find me on the dance floor where West Coast Swing is my dance of choice. Socialising with the friends I've made there from all over the world has also brought me new adventures in alcohol!  And just in case you're interested, I also write a blog called Confidence Within.  You'll find it at heatherharrison.weebly.com


    Remember to enjoy wine sensibly...
    For a woman, 2-3 units per day is the recommended maximum allowance.  This equates to around one standard "pub measure" glass of wine:
    175ml of 13% alcohol wine is 2.3 units (and a scary 140 calories).  
    You'll find all the facts you need about safe, moderate drinking at the www.Drinkaware.co.uk site. 
    Purple Teeth supports safe drinking. Never drive or operate machinery after drinking alcohol.

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