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Italian white

27/7/2014

 
PictureMy belief about Pinot Grigio
Like most people, when I think of Italian white wine, it's Pinot Grigio that comes to mind. It's definitely not my favourite wine, though I'm sure there are some out there I'd enjoy if I gave them a chance.  I believe Alto-Adige is the region to look out for, and I shall continue my quest to find one that's suitable for my palate.
There's no denying the popularity of Pinot Grigio, though, and it's one that makes it's way onto the "wines by the glass" list of many bars and restaurants these days, as it's neutral and inexpensive.  Do let me know your favourites on my Facebook page.

In Italian restaurants, I'll generally opt for a Gavi Di Gavi (made from the Cortese grape) if I feel like a white. 

But one of the most amazing things about Italy is it's huge diversity of grape varieties.  There's an astonishing range out there. And as I'm constantly urging you, my readers, to try something new, when I realised I was long overdue for an Italian based blog post, I thought I'd push myself to try something a bit less well known, too.  Watch out for a post on Italian reds soon, as I continue my homework.
Italian wine can be a bit bewildering. Even having studied wine, I'm still amazed by the rich variety out there, and it can be hard to know where to begin.

I've selected 2 fairly different styles for you to explore.

Picture£11.90 from Wine Cellar Club 12.5% abv
First up Vernaccia Di San Gimignano DOCG (watch out, there's more than one Vernaccia out there), which comes from Tuscany, perhaps more famous for red Chianti than it's white wines.  
There are probably less than 2000 acres of the grape across Italy, so it's definitely one if the lesser known varietals, yet, it was the first ever DOC in Italy in 1966, and was awarded Italy's top geographic status of DOCG in 1993. Italy has 73 DOCG designations at the time of writing.

I received this in an "Outside the Box" selection from the recently established Wine Cellar Club, the retail arm of trade suppliers Milton Sandford Wines.  Until recently you could only find their wines in bars, restaurants and hotels, and at restaurant wine prices. I love trying new things so a case of 12 slightly off the beaten track wines seemed as good a way as any to try the (free membership) club.  You'll definitely hear more about the other wines in the case here. 

On the nose it was super light. A hint of citrus maybe, but this was clearly not going to be one of the pungent aromatic varietals I tend to favour. Perhaps all those years of mainlining chilli have damaged my capacity to appreciate the subtle.

Picture
My first taste was of a fairly neutral white with an overwhelming flavour of crisp green apple. Drinking in the garden on a hot summer evening however, the wine quickly warmed up from it's fridge chilling and this brought out some more interesting savoury flavours. According to Jancis Robinson's tome, "Wine Grapes" (link below, I researched it for some background info), this is usually seen as a refreshing almond finish. Great! An excuse to eat an almond. And yes, sure enough, the flavour is distinctly almondy.
Much less acidic than I expected from an Italian wine it's  a fairly light and easy drinking style.  I paired it with an impromptu picnic of vintage cheddar, cherry tomatoes and honey roast ham, with some mixed salted nuts. Who can be bothered cooking in this heat?
Mr Purple Teeth instantly picked up on the fact this is lighter in alcohol than he's used to, and not a flavour blockbuster (look, I've ruined his palate with chili too - sue me!) He thought it pleasant as an early evening tipple when you don't want to get too tipsy or overdo it and thought it worked well with nibbles like olive and nuts.

I'd feared the strong cheese might overwhelm the delicate flavours. Luckily the salty tang enhanced the wine's savoury note, though I think it worked best with the ham, and it fared well with the nuts. I reckon at 12.5% this could make a fresh white for Italian inspired picnics as a change from your regular PG. I just hope your fridge has a higher food to wine ratio than mine!

Picture£7.95 from Wine Society (membership £40 for life)
Next came something completely different, a 50/50 blend of Fiano & Greco.  The blend A Mano, is from Puglia in the South of Italy.  I've enjoyed Fiano in the past, but I don't recall ever having had Greco before.  This was came from The Wine Society and was a good value way to sample these grapes.  If you're not a Wine Society member, as many of you may not be, I noticed that Sainsbury's are now stocking a 10% Greco di Trufo (one of the best geographic areas for the grape) for around £10, and you'll find a a couple of choices of Fiano at Tesco. (Please note, I've tried none of these so I cannot vouch for them. I'd love to hear what you think of them, if you have sampled them.)  The key geographic zone for the best Fiano is Avellino.

Did I mention that I like powerfully flavoured aromatic wines?  This one seemed to fit the bill. 
The nose was of candied fruit, perhaps those confected citrus peel sweets.  Mr Purple Teeth reminisced about the 70s boiled sweet, pineapple chunks.  There was a good body on it too, which he likes.  Lucky for me he likes curves.


Picture
The first glass was not super chilled as this had been on the top shelf of my fridge.  This perhaps meant the flavours were stronger than they might otherwise appear if served really chilled.  It's a rather elegant wine for the price, but although dry, it may appear sweet to some drinkers because if it's very sweet fruit flavours.

Mr Purple Teeth was a fan, but really he suggested drinking alone rather than with food because the abundance of  sweet flavours may clash.  His main complaint - too quaffable.

To me, this feels very well balanced, 13% alcohol is almost a surprise, it's harmonious & elegant and appealingly full of tropical fruit flavours and peach. Charentais melon perhaps?   Some dried apricot? Some zing but not overtly acidic or overly mouthwatering. It has luxurious body (coming from the Greco) for under £8.  I'm sure we'll buy this again if we ever get round to needing more wine.  My fridge is groaning and my wine rack has expanded across every available surface in the kitchen, and somewhat beyond.  Have I got a problem?  Perhaps I need a wine fridge for my birthday?

Do please share your comments on favourite Italian whites, whether Pinot Grigio or otherwise.  And 


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    Purple Teeth

    My name's Heather and I've been enjoying wine for over 20 years. I'm the 2013 winner of the Wine and Spirit Education Trust Rhone prize for oustanding students at the advanced level.
    My mission is to share my passion for the myriad varieties of fermented grape juice, hopefully inspiring you to try something new, or to host  a Purple Teeth wine party in your own home or business.

    My blog mainly features wines you should be able to find on your local high street or online, and occasionally, I will review restaurants, travel and other forms of alcohol, since my qualification covers spirits too.  I believe it's important to enjoy the calories and the cash we spend on alcohol, and I hope my guidance can help you reduce the risk of making a bad buy.
      
    When I'm not drinking wine, you'll find me on the dance floor where West Coast Swing is my dance of choice. Socialising with the friends I've made there from all over the world has also brought me new adventures in alcohol!  And just in case you're interested, I also write a blog called Confidence Within.  You'll find it at heatherharrison.weebly.com


    Remember to enjoy wine sensibly...
    For a woman, 2-3 units per day is the recommended maximum allowance.  This equates to around one standard "pub measure" glass of wine:
    175ml of 13% alcohol wine is 2.3 units (and a scary 140 calories).  
    You'll find all the facts you need about safe, moderate drinking at the www.Drinkaware.co.uk site. 
    Purple Teeth supports safe drinking. Never drive or operate machinery after drinking alcohol.

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