The fabulous Vintners' Hall and our speakers from Hatch Mansfield. When you receive an invitation for a Monday night, it's not uncommon to groan. Who can be bothered slogging through the London rush hour on a Monday?
However, when the invitation is for "An Evening With Taittinger", it's quite a different story.
Milton Sandford Wines had invited me to join them in celebrating Searcys' Champagne Week (1-7 October) for an evening at Vintners' Hall. Aside from the fantastic opportunity to taste a range of wines from one Champagne house side-by-side, this would be my first visit to the iconic Vintners' Hall, the spiritual home of the UK Wine Trade with over 650 years of history.
I'd have walked over hot coals for the chance. As it was, I only had to endure torrential rain and the odd signal failure. Result!
However, when the invitation is for "An Evening With Taittinger", it's quite a different story.
Milton Sandford Wines had invited me to join them in celebrating Searcys' Champagne Week (1-7 October) for an evening at Vintners' Hall. Aside from the fantastic opportunity to taste a range of wines from one Champagne house side-by-side, this would be my first visit to the iconic Vintners' Hall, the spiritual home of the UK Wine Trade with over 650 years of history.
I'd have walked over hot coals for the chance. As it was, I only had to endure torrential rain and the odd signal failure. Result!
The Taittinger range tasted across the evening The reception began with a refreshing glass of Taittinger Brut Réserve NV accompanied by canapés of salmon with piccalilli and beetroot. My first observation was that this "house signature" cuvée (a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 25% Meunier) seemed a little sweeter than I'd been expecting. Perhaps my recent tastings of "zero-dosage" sparkling wines had left my palate attuned to a more austere style, as with just 7 grams of residual sugar, this glass was just what we'd expect from a well made Champagne Brut NV. Fresh, fruity, balanced, and perfect with the fishy canapées.
It's here that most Champagne experiences would end. Confined to life as a trusty aperitif, many of us don't get beyond a second glass. I, among other guests, had failed to see the full potential for serving Champagnes with a whole range of foods. This evening would certainly change our perceptions.
It's here that most Champagne experiences would end. Confined to life as a trusty aperitif, many of us don't get beyond a second glass. I, among other guests, had failed to see the full potential for serving Champagnes with a whole range of foods. This evening would certainly change our perceptions.
Vintners' Hall was a fitting setting for a prestigious evening, hosted by Patrick McGrath MW, the managing director of Hatch Mansfield, UK agents of the family owned Champagnes Taittinger. As well as giving us an appreciation of the Champagne region, it's geography and wine-making history, Patrick gave us an entertaining overview of what makes Taittinger special: with almost 300 years of history, it has, since 1931, remained one of the few Champagne houses to still be owned and actively managed by the family named on the label.
He described Taittinger as a "feminine" style of Champagne compared with Bollinger's perhaps more "masculine" style. This, he advised, came from the dominance of Chardonnay in the cuvées, giving a house style that favoured elegance, delicacy and finesse. I found this an interesting observation given how many female Purple Teeth readers have told me that Taittinger is their favourite Champagne.
He described Taittinger as a "feminine" style of Champagne compared with Bollinger's perhaps more "masculine" style. This, he advised, came from the dominance of Chardonnay in the cuvées, giving a house style that favoured elegance, delicacy and finesse. I found this an interesting observation given how many female Purple Teeth readers have told me that Taittinger is their favourite Champagne.
The formal tasting began with Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus NV. Blended from 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, all sourced only from Grand Cru (the highest rated) vineyards, this felt a lot drier with a very delicate mousse. I really enjoyed the lovely minerality and long finish. It was accompanied by red mullet with green apple, in the form of a spring roll, served with a mousse of lobster and tomato. As finger food goes, this was an incredible dish, and paired wonderfully. There was something even more surprising to come next.
Heavens above, who'd have believed that a single vineyard gem like Folie de la Marquetterie would be available from Asda Direct for just £50. Look for the orange label. A large cube of Ibérico Pork Croquette was quite a mouthful. Aside from the size, which made it less of a canapé and more of a main course, this was a delicious, salty taste explosion, and absolutely not what one would think of pairing with Champagne. In fact, the weighty body in the Folies de la Marquetterie NV was a superb match. This single vineyard blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay was brimming with toasty notes, and stone fruits. The full, ripe flavours and sumptuous body were a hit with my table companions and myself. I'd quite happily have drunk several glasses of this (make that the whole bottle.) It completely opened my mind to what a Champagne and food pairing could deliver.
Almost affordable luxury, serve it with Jamón Ibérico or the finest smoked salmon you can afford.
Almost affordable luxury, serve it with Jamón Ibérico or the finest smoked salmon you can afford.
The standout dish of the evening A hugely surprising and yet similarly stand out dish came in the form of an amuse bouche styled pre-dessert. The title was salted almonds, green apple and rhubarb with caramelised milk. The taste was sublime. Stupidly, we were all too polite to indulge in this sad leftover serving. I'd quite happily have eaten a barrel of it. This dish alone was enough to make me want to book a function at Vinters' Hall again, just to enjoy it one more time. But Champagne with something like this? Surely not.
In the wine trade, we are always schooled that the wine should be sweeter than the dessert. In this case, the salted almonds clearly challenged that rule. Our glass of Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV (a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 25% Meunier) was off-dry in style with around 13 grams of residual sugar and worked well with the sweet and salt nature of the dish. A very easy-to-drink, mellow style of Champagne, this was the favourite of a couple of my table-mates who enjoyed its rounded balance. Patrick described this as a perfect Champagne to serve with Afternoon Tea. One day, I hope to test that.
In the wine trade, we are always schooled that the wine should be sweeter than the dessert. In this case, the salted almonds clearly challenged that rule. Our glass of Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV (a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 25% Meunier) was off-dry in style with around 13 grams of residual sugar and worked well with the sweet and salt nature of the dish. A very easy-to-drink, mellow style of Champagne, this was the favourite of a couple of my table-mates who enjoyed its rounded balance. Patrick described this as a perfect Champagne to serve with Afternoon Tea. One day, I hope to test that.
Pink Champagne always gets a lot of attention. It's seen as more celebratory and the appeal of the beautiful colour (achieved by blending in up to 15% of still Pinot Noir wine), in our glass of Prestige Rosé NV was clear. The nose too, delivered in spades. In the end, though, this blend of 30% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, 25% Meunier, while fruity and vibrant, was the one bottle which didn't find itself finished by the end of the evening.
A decent drop with bursting with red fruits, it was a good accompaniment to the raspberry brioche dessert, which I likened to a posh and less sweet jam doughnut. But by this stage, we had all clearly selected our favourite, and while pleasant, this didn't steal the show for anyone at our table.
To be fair, we had some die-hard fans of Billecart-Salmon Rosé present, so perhaps they were never going to be convinced. Luckily, the story didn't end on this note.
A decent drop with bursting with red fruits, it was a good accompaniment to the raspberry brioche dessert, which I likened to a posh and less sweet jam doughnut. But by this stage, we had all clearly selected our favourite, and while pleasant, this didn't steal the show for anyone at our table.
To be fair, we had some die-hard fans of Billecart-Salmon Rosé present, so perhaps they were never going to be convinced. Luckily, the story didn't end on this note.
If you can't resist trying this gem, it's available for £120 at Majestic Wines. The pièce de résistance came in the form of a glass of Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut. This 2005 vintage is a 100% Chardonnay that retails at over £100 a bottle. All the Chardonnay grapes used in this wine come from the 100% rated vineyards of Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, Oger and Mesnil-Sur-Oger in the Côte des Blanc.
Suddenly, the delights of the Folies de la Marquetterie paled for many. With a highly pronounced nose which followed through on the palate, there was pear, apple, citrus and toasted brioche in abundance. We were served with a small bag of Marc de Champagne chocolate truffles, but this demanded to be given our full attention. (I saved my chocolates for the rather tedious train journey home).
An incredibly delicate yet creamy mousse, gave an enveloping and velvety mouthfeel along with a long and mineral driven finish. This is a glass to savour, that led to much debate about when one would open such a bottle. I felt a wine like this demanded to be the centre of attention in a romantic evening for two, while others felt they wouldn't want to share it at all. Certainly, you'd be the host of the year if you served this at a party or celebration. Just don't serve it to Prosecco fans.
As we re-sampled the bottles that remained on our table and discussed what made each wine special for us, it became a less formal and highly convivial evening. It was a real privilege to gain an insight into the diversity of styles offered by one house. For sure, it's not "just Champagne". Like all wines, there are a range of styles available. I hope you have as much fun discovering your favourites as I did.
As a parting remark, I'll leave you with the wise advice of our host, Patrick McGrath MW. Champagne is meant to be enjoyed. It's had all it's ageing in the beautiful, centuries-old, chalk cellars underneath Reims and environs.
Buy it, chill it and drink it.
Don't keep it. Don't wait for a special occasion. Drinking Champagne is the occasion.
Cheers!
I'd love to hear about your favourite Champagnes and sparkling wines. Feel free to leave your comments here, or on my Facebook page. Email me here if you'd like to host your own Purple Teeth wine or Champagne tasting in your own venue.
Suddenly, the delights of the Folies de la Marquetterie paled for many. With a highly pronounced nose which followed through on the palate, there was pear, apple, citrus and toasted brioche in abundance. We were served with a small bag of Marc de Champagne chocolate truffles, but this demanded to be given our full attention. (I saved my chocolates for the rather tedious train journey home).
An incredibly delicate yet creamy mousse, gave an enveloping and velvety mouthfeel along with a long and mineral driven finish. This is a glass to savour, that led to much debate about when one would open such a bottle. I felt a wine like this demanded to be the centre of attention in a romantic evening for two, while others felt they wouldn't want to share it at all. Certainly, you'd be the host of the year if you served this at a party or celebration. Just don't serve it to Prosecco fans.
As we re-sampled the bottles that remained on our table and discussed what made each wine special for us, it became a less formal and highly convivial evening. It was a real privilege to gain an insight into the diversity of styles offered by one house. For sure, it's not "just Champagne". Like all wines, there are a range of styles available. I hope you have as much fun discovering your favourites as I did.
As a parting remark, I'll leave you with the wise advice of our host, Patrick McGrath MW. Champagne is meant to be enjoyed. It's had all it's ageing in the beautiful, centuries-old, chalk cellars underneath Reims and environs.
Buy it, chill it and drink it.
Don't keep it. Don't wait for a special occasion. Drinking Champagne is the occasion.
Cheers!
I'd love to hear about your favourite Champagnes and sparkling wines. Feel free to leave your comments here, or on my Facebook page. Email me here if you'd like to host your own Purple Teeth wine or Champagne tasting in your own venue.
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